Wine Arcana

Grape

Auxerrois Blanc

Auxerrois Blanc is a white Vitis vinifera variety best known from Alsace. It is often confused with Pinot Blanc because Alsace permits both varieties in wines labelled “Pinot blanc,” but they are distinct vines. Auxerrois usually gives a softer, broader wine than Pinot Blanc: Plantgrape describes its wines as not very acidic, while its Pinot Blanc record describes that variety as moderately acidic and light-bodied.1. Plantgrape, “Auxerrois B.”2. Plantgrape, “Pinot blanc B.” A specialist reference likewise characterizes Auxerrois as slightly fuller and less acidic than Pinot Blanc.3. Jancis Robinson, “Auxerrois.”

Identity and Alsatian association

The French catalogue name is Auxerrois B. Plantgrape records no officially recognised synonym for the variety in France or elsewhere in the European Union. Genetic analyses indicate that Auxerrois descends from a cross between Pinot and Gouais blanc. The variety's strong Alsatian identity reflects its history of cultivation and selection there, not evidence that Alsace was its place of origin. The Laquenexy research station encouraged its development, and the Colmar Viticulture and Oenology Research Station developed it strongly in the Alsace vineyards after 1950.1. Plantgrape, “Auxerrois B.”

Viticulture

Auxerrois has small bunches and berries and ripens early, about a week and a half after Chasselas in the Plantgrape record. It is suited to northern areas and limestone terroirs, which helps explain its usefulness in Alsace and other cooler European vineyards. The vine is moderately vigorous but has low fertility when pruned short. Growers must also manage its susceptibility to grape moths, downy mildew, grey rot and, particularly, powdery mildew.1. Plantgrape, “Auxerrois B.”

Wine character

The official Alsace wine body describes Auxerrois as a round, ample complement to Pinot Blanc.4. Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins d’Alsace, “Pinot Blanc d’Alsace.” Plantgrape calls the wines fine and slightly aromatic.

The Pinot Blanc label in Alsace

Alsace's appellation specification makes the naming problem a legal one, not just a matter of local habit. It permits the denomination “Auxerrois” only for auxerrois B. It permits “Pinot blanc” for either auxerrois B or pinot blanc B, so an Alsace wine bearing that name may be made from Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, or a blend of the two.5. Ministère de l’Agriculture, Cahier des charges de l’AOC « Alsace » ou « Vin d’Alsace », chapter I, II.4. A label reading “Pinot Blanc” therefore does not by itself identify the biological variety.

The broader denomination “Pinot” or “Klevner” is less specific still. The same specification includes auxerrois B, pinot blanc B, Pinot Noir vinified as a white wine, and Pinot Gris under that designation.5. Ministère de l’Agriculture, Cahier des charges de l’AOC « Alsace » ou « Vin d’Alsace », chapter I, II.4. “Klevner” should not be treated as a synonym for Auxerrois.

Sources