Wine Arcana

Grape

Pecorino

Also known as Vissanello

Pecorino is a white Vitis vinifera variety grown chiefly in Marche and Abruzzo, on the Adriatic side of central Italy. Its wines often combine conspicuous acidity with a substantial palate. This balance helps explain its use both as a varietal dry white and as a component in blends.

The grape ripens early enough to accumulate sugar while retaining useful acidity. The resulting wine can feel fresh and full at the same time, with the balance changing according to the growing season, harvest date, and cellar treatment.

Identity and revival

The Italian Vitis Database recognizes Pecorino as a registered variety and lists Vissanello as an official synonym.1. L. de Palma et al., “Pecorino,” Italian Vitis Database, 2013, updated 2020, https://vitisdb.it/varieties/show/1433. Its modern revival gathered pace in the late 1980s. Plantings and varietal bottlings gave a previously marginal grape a more visible place in the wines of eastern central Italy.

Pecorino's historical names require care. The grape called Pecorino in parts of Calabria has been identified as different material. A local name alone therefore provides weaker evidence of identity than a verified vine record. The Marche and Abruzzo variety discussed here is the registered Pecorino.

In the vineyard

Peter Dry's varietal account describes mid-season budburst, early maturity, and low to moderate vigour. Bunches are fairly well filled and may be compact; the berries are small to medium in size. Italian growers commonly prune to canes, while Australian plantings also use spur pruning.

Reported tolerance of downy mildew coexists with susceptibility to powdery mildew. Those diseases have different biology, so a favourable observation about one gives growers limited guidance about the other. Vineyard conditions and the season still govern disease management.

Regional and cellar expressions

Offida in southern Marche gives Pecorino an established appellation context. Across the regional border, Abruzzo also promotes the grape within its regional wine denomination. The Consorzio Vini d'Abruzzo includes Pecorino in its work on both still wine and sparkling base wine, reflecting interest in how its acidity performs under different production goals.

Dry whites commonly show a modest floral or ripe-fruit character, sometimes with an almond-like or slightly bitter finish. Winemakers can develop the texture while keeping that acidity apparent. At Offida, Cantina D'Angelo describes protecting its Pecorino from oxygen and managing the fine lees to build body while preserving freshness. This is a documented cellar approach to the grape, and an example of why texture can vary between producers.

Lees ageing changes the wine through contact with the yeast sediment after fermentation. Oxygen management influences a different part of its development, affecting the preservation and evolution of aroma. Together with harvest maturity, these choices help explain the range between direct young Pecorino and wines given more time in the cellar.

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